By Blaze Media  |  Quarterly Magazine

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Time on My Side

Time on My Side

An ode to wristwatches and our picks for the best ones on the market.

In my version of hell, a watch would send me text messages and remind me I’m missing the endless ping of emails. It would be a piece of disposable technology that I would have to charge, ensuring I can never escape the digital doomscroll. It would track my health with no noticeable outcome. No offense to those who wear the digital, but a watch can be so much more than just another piece of silicon. It can be an embodiment of your personal style, a talisman you carry through your life's journey. In a world of disposable tech, it’s a beautifully anachronistic piece of technology. It can also tie you to your family because a well-preserved watch can last lifetimes.

You don't actually need a watch; everyone has a phone. So why is this technology from a bygone era still so popular? A triumph of human ingenuity, a vestige of a world before the blinding blue glow of screens took over our wrists, our minds, our very sense of time itself. It sits there, snug against the wrist, its rotor spinning with each flick of the arm, its gears meshing, its escapement tick-tick-ticking. And yet, for all its mechanical splendor, its polished lugs, and beveled sapphire crystal, it is an anachronism! A marvelous, defiant, romantic anachronism in an era that has reduced time to a cold, sterile, flickering set of digits. You have before you a device that does nothing more than tell the time. And not even the most accurate time! It drifts, it falters, it gains a second here, loses a second there. And yet, this imperfection, this very human flaw, is what makes it beautiful. Unlike the lifeless, pixelated display of a smartwatch—so cold, so impersonal, so . . . replaceable—the mechanical watch is alive in your hands, its tiny, whirring balance wheel a miniature beating heart of steel and brass.

To grasp the knurled crown between your thumb and forefinger, to twist it, to feel the tension building in the mainspring, to know—instinctively, viscerally—that you are giving life to something. No wireless charging pads, no software updates, no planned obsolescence lurking just beyond the next iteration. No, this is endurance, permanence! A mechanical wristwatch, when properly cared for, will outlast its owner. It is a legacy, an heirloom, a whisper across generations. The beauty of the hobby lies in its egalitarian nature. You can spend tens or even hundreds of thousands of dollars on bespoke pieces handmade in serene Swiss alpine factories; you can also invest $200 in a Seiko that you’ll be able to pass on to your children.

Step into the world of watches, and you will find an obsession that borders on the divine. The watchmakers in their white coats, their monocles wedged deep into their brows, hunched over their benches as they assemble movements no thicker than a coin. The sheer extravagance of decoration that exists solely for the appreciation of those who bother to peer through the caseback! A mechanical watch is a contradiction of the highest order: a tool that no longer serves a practical purpose, yet one whose very existence is the result of centuries of refinement, of ceaseless pursuit toward an ever-elusive perfection.

Yes, you could check the time on your phone. You could rely on the atomic clock synchronized to a satellite drifting in the thermosphere. But where is the romance in that? Where is the soul? A mechanical watch is not about efficiency, nor about necessity—it is about pleasure, about defiance, about the deep, ineffable joy of knowing that time, that most fleeting of commodities, can still be measured by the weight of something real, something tangible, something timeless. There’s an infinite variety of watches you can choose, but these are some of our favorites, representing a wide variety of price points.

1. Christopher Ward Twelve

Christopher Ward

Founded in 2004, Christopher Ward is a watch brand that doesn’t have hundreds of years of history behind it. However, what it lacks in history, it makes up in providing exceptional, innovative watches at a very reasonable price point. Christopher Ward has been turning heads with a chiming watch called the Bel Canto, along with divers and GMTs. The Twelve, however, represents a design achievement that has taken the world by storm. Clearly inspired by the Gerald Genta-style integrated bracelet sports watches from much pricier brands, the Twelve succeeds by honoring the past while charting a completely new path. At 40mm in steel, it’s under 10mm thick, offering a very comfortable wearing experience. Powered by the Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement and featuring a stunning three-dimensional pyramid dial, it’s a watch that punches well above its weight.

MSRP $1,225

2. Breitling Premier B25 Datora

Breitling

Breitling was experiencing a bit of a lull as a brand. Far from the glory days of the 80s Navitimer and the robust tool watches of the 90s, it began to lose popularity to brands like Tudor and Omega. Everything changed in 2017, when Georges Kern took the helm and reestablished Breitling’s identity. The brand embraced the designs and aesthetics of 140 years of Swiss watchmaking. There’s no better example of this return to form than the Premier B25 Datora. With a 42mm stainless steel case, it features a triple calendar chronograph and a moonphase indicator. The star of the show is the stunning salmon dial, which exudes an elegant sophistication from a bygone era. The dimensions and design succeed by drawing on the past to create timepieces for the modern era. Breitling has reinvented itself and showcased a timeless watch paired with cutting-edge watchmaking.

MSRP $14,500

3. Rolex Datejust

Rolex

There is a reason Rolex is the most iconic and possibly the most famous brand in the world. A Rolex is a watch made to be seen. It’s both a blessing and a curse because some view it as a gaudy piece of jewelry or merely a status symbol; however, when most people envision the Platonic ideal of a watch, they likely picture a Rolex. It’s the timepiece of presidents, spies, rappers, explorers, race car drivers, and probably your grandfather. Icons from Tony Soprano to Donald Trump to Paul Newman to Ernest Hemingway to Fidel Castro have always worn one on their wrists. If you can look past the hype, it’s a spectacular piece of Swiss engineering proven to be as tough as it is elegant. In the modern collection, the Datejust is hard to beat. It’s a rare watch that looks just as good with a tuxedo as it does with jeans and a T-shirt. "The classic 36mm size is always a strong choice, since it hasn't gone out of style in seventy years."

MSRP $9,250

4. Tudor Black Bay GMT

Tudor

Tudor, owned by Rolex, has experienced a renaissance over the last decade. In 2012, the brand introduced the Black Bay line, which led to a surge in popularity. The design language of the watches clearly draws inspiration from their more renowned and higher-priced sister brand, yet they have become the preferred choice in the entry-level luxury segment. The Black Bay GMT exemplifies a blend of 60s-era chic style and robust modern watchmaking. Featuring a 41mm steel case, 200m of water resistance, a true GMT movement, and a “Pepsi” bezel, it stands out as the ultimate travel watch, ready for any adventure. It also boasts an in-house Chronometer movement, a seventy-hour power reserve, and an exceptionally comfortable, well-made bracelet. This version showcases a stunning white opaline dial. Tudor crafted an impressive tool watch, reminiscent of an era when adventure seemed as close as jumping on a Pan-Am flight. Full disclosure: I own this watch and couldn’t recommend it highly enough.

MSRP $4,550

5. IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN Mojave Desert

IWC Schaffhausen

Crafted from sand-colored ceramic, this distinctive case—dubbed Mojave Desert—features an earthy tone blending beige and khaki, inspired by naval aviators' flight suits and the desert terrain surrounding China Lake, home to the U.S. Navy’s renowned TOPGUN flight school. Complementing the case, the dark brown dial, hands, printed details, and luminescent markers create a harmonious aesthetic, paired with a rubber strap featuring a textile inlay. The matte grey titanium crown, chronograph pushers, and case back add a rugged touch. This highly durable chronograph movement, designed with a classic column-wheel mechanism, consists of 242 meticulously crafted components. The IWC-signature vertical dial layout positions the elapsed minutes at the 12 o’clock mark for enhanced readability. An efficient double pawl winding system captures rotor movements in both directions, providing a 46-hour power reserve. To ensure reliability, the movement is housed within a soft iron inner case for magnetic resistance, while the front glass is specially secured to withstand sudden air pressure drops.

MSRP $11,700

6. NOMOS Club Campus 38

NOMOS Glashütte

NOMOS is a brand hailing from the Glashütte region of Germany, long considered the apex of Deutschland watchmaking. It’s a brand that produces all of their movements internally rather than taking the more economical approach of outsourcing them, an unheard-of move by a watchmaker at this price point. However, NOMOS never takes the easy way out. Instead, they embody the German ideals of commitment to craft and excellence. In their watches you’ll find a level of finishing and quality that many brands two and three times the price cannot match. The NOMOS Club Campus 38 mm is a sleek and versatile mechanical watch, perfect for both casual and formal wear. With its minimalist yet sporty design, it features a stainless steel case, a domed sapphire crystal, and a California dial combining Roman and Arabic numerals. The 38.5mm case provides a comfortable fit, making it ideal for a variety of wrist sizes. With its refined aesthetics and high-quality craftsmanship, the Club Campus 38 embodies the NOMOS brand’s Bauhaus-inspired elegance.

MSRP $1,650

7. Longines Master Collection

Longines

With choices of 34 mm and 40 mm, this model boasts cases fashioned from either stainless steel or 18-carat yellow or rose gold. Their elegant, sandblasted silver dials reveal engraved Arabic numerals, artfully presented in hues of anthracite, yellow gilt, or rose gilt. Driven by the Longines caliber L888.5, these self-winding mechanical watches promise a 72-hour power reserve, coupled with exceptional resistance to magnetic fields. Through the transparent caseback, one can admire the delicate oscillating weight, plated in either rhodium or gold. Since its establishment in 1832 in the tranquil town of Saint-Imier, Switzerland, Longines has woven a legacy of tradition, elegance, and ground-breaking innovation. Renowned as a pioneer of precision, each automatic model is enhanced with silicon balance-springs, a feature that embodies the commitment to sublime durability and excellence.

MSRP $3,025

8. Hamilton Khaki Field Bronze

Hamilton Watch Company

The Hamilton Khaki Field 38mm is my top recommendation for rugged, outdoorsy friends in need of a tough, stylish first watch. It’s durable, versatile, and now available in more dial colors and case treatments than ever. At 9.5mm thick with 50m water resistance, it’s not a dive watch, but it’s certainly capable for hiking, exploring, and even the occasional lake plunge. The bronze case version develops a unique patina over time—perfect for those who view wear as character. The titanium case back ensures durability, while the marbled aging adds personality. If you prefer a cleaner look, opt for stainless steel. Those models maintain their classic, rugged appeal with brushed cases, drilled lug holes, and the same 20mm lug width. It’s a rock-solid, adventure-ready timepiece that only gets better with time.

MSRP $895

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Peter Gietl

Peter Gietl

Managing Editor, Return

Peter Gietl is the managing editor for Return.
@petergietl →